IFMGA Guide Entry Requirements

Artur Klajnerok, Tue Feb 28 2023 • ifmga

Entry Requirements

have extensive experience in the disciplines of general mountaineering, skiing, rock and ice. Skiing must be replaced and compensated in “No Ski” countries by intensified training content (snow and avalanche training, avalanche assessment, activities in snow-covered terrain – possibly with snowshoes, group guiding etc.) (see 5.15)
provide a list of at least 55 routes which includes varied mountain routes, ski tours, technical climbs, and other experience carried out over a period of at least three years. During these climbs, the applicant must either have been the rope leader with full responsibility or have carried out alternative leads with shared responsibility
be in very good physical shape

general mountaineering, snow and ice: a minimum of 15 routes of which five must be of difficulty D+ and with a vertical height gain of at least 800 metres
rock: a minimum of 15 routes with a vertical height gain of at least 300 metres (or at least 15 pitches), of minimum difficulty 5c (VI / UIAA) . The routes have to be belayed by oneself and should therefore not be equipped with bolts.
the ascent and descent for these routes must have taken place on mountainous terrain and/or on glaciers
in descent, only a small number of the 30 routes can be carried out using fixed and established rappel stations, most descents should be by a route other than that of the ascent and must be in terrain, alpine in character
routes that appear twice in the route report will be counted only once

ski touring: a minimum of 25 tours, each tour having at least 1000 metres ascent. At least 10 of these days must be on glacier terrain and have at least 1400 metres elevation gain in ascent.
For “No Ski countries”; a minimum of 25 days winter mountaineering (possibly also with snowshoes) each day having at least 800 metres ascent/descent. At least 10 of these days must be on glacier terrain and have at least 1200 metres elevation gain in ascent.

An Applicant must provide any other relevant experience, for example via ferrata of difficulty degree TD/ED or K5/K6, expeditions or climbs abroad/overseas, and training undertaken in Alpine type terrain